Alessandria District Wines

"A wine holds in itself much more than some definitions give it to understand: in fact, over and beyond the colour, the purity, the fragrance and the taste which identify it, it expresses the soul and the personality, the history and the traditions of the peoples and the places which produced it"
Mario Soldati

Nothing can better describe the character of the Alessandria district wines than the words of the Piedmont writer Mario Soldati: Dolcetto, Cortese, Barbera, Grignolino, Brachetto, Moscato are actually the language of Monferrato, an area rich not only of D.O.C e D.O.C.G. high quality wines but also of valuable gastronomical products which, all together, create an heterogeneous cooking that keeps even nowadays an authenticity and a tradition able to lead to the rediscovery of ancient and often lost tastes.

Therefore, in order to thoroughly savour a wine, it is important to know its origins, its peculiarities, and to taste it together with those dishes which have always been accompanying it, intensifying any aroma and fragrance of the wine.

Cortese

The first historical mention of Cortese (in dialect "courteisa", a feminine word), a traditional white grapevine species of Piedmont, goes back to 1630 and refers to the Montaldeo lands. In fact, since remote times, the Cortese grapes have found their ideal environment in the Alessandria district, in particular in the Tortona and Acqui areas and in the surroundings of Novi Ligure (it may be right to consider Gavi as the homeland of this grapevine species).

The type of wine originating from the Cortese grapes has a dry, fresh, slightly almond-like taste together with a delicate, light, persistent fragrance and an appropriate, steady acidity: on account of these characteristics, it is incomparable with fish, white meat, pasta (noodles) and vegetable dishes, soups, cheese, Novi flat bread, hors d'oeuvre and as aperitive.

Five wines are originating from the Cortese grapevine species, four of which being produced exclusively in the Alessandria district:

  • Gavi or Cortese di Gavi (D.O.C.G.)
    Grapevine: Cortese
    Colour: more or less dark straw-coloured
    Fragrance: faint but delicate and permanent bouquet; fine, delicate, characteristic of the "fizzy" and "sparkling" types
    Taste: dry, pleasing, with a fresh and harmonious taste
  • Colli Tortonesi Cortese (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Cortese
    Colour: light straw-coloured with greenish reflexes
    Fragrance: delicate, pleasing and persistent with a characteristic smell
    Taste: dry, fresh, lively, light, with a bit of bitter almond
  • Cortese dell'Alto Monferrato (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Cortese. The presence of other white grapevines is allowed, except for the aromatic ones, provided they do not exceed 15%
    Colour: light straw-coloured, sometimes slightly pale green
    Fragrance: delicate, quite faint but persistent
    Taste: dry, harmonious, pleasingly bitterish
  • Monferrato Casalese Cortese (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Cortese. The presence of other white grapevines is allowed, except for the aromatic ones, provided they do not exceed 15% and are "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: light straw-coloured, sometimes slightly pale green
    Fragrance: characteristic, delicate, quite faint but persistent
    Taste: dry, harmonious, savoury, pleasingly bitterish
  • Piemonte Cortese (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Cortese for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other grapevines with acini of similar colour, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: straw-coloured with greenish reflexes
    Fragrance: delicate, pleasing, persistent
    Taste: fresh, dry, pleasing.

Grignolino

The "Barbesino", as it was called in old times, is a grapevine originating from the Casale-Asti area: the first mention of its growing is found in the documents of land census in the canon chapter of Casale Monferrato of 1252, 1253 e 1254 in which it is identified as "bonis plantis". In reality, the Grignolino wine, of light ruby colour, with its delicate and not very intense fragrance, slightly herbal and with a fairly tannic, bitterish and lively taste, is famous for its anarchic characteristic, so uneven from one vintage to the other that it is more and more esteemed, demanded, praised, loved, defended, too often unappreciated.

This wine is certainly not an easy one; yet in the 19th century it won the favour of the kings and the Savoia aristocracy; it features qualities rarely found in other red wines, particularly as regards oenogastronomical combinations: in fact, in addition to intensifying the taste of fat food, it may be served perfectly with fish-based dishes and it is very appreciated during the Summer if tasted fresh, at cellar temperature.

Two wines are originating from Grignolino grapes, produced in the Alessandria district:

  • Grignolino del Monferrato casalese (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Grignolino; the grapes originating from the Freisa species may contribute to the production of this wine for a maximum of 10%
    Colour: light ruby red with a tendency to orange when maturing
    Fragrance: delicate
    Taste: dry, slightly tannic, pleasing bitterish, with a characteristic aftertaste
  • Piemonte Grignolino (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Grignolino for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other grapes with acini of similar colour "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: more or less deep ruby red
    Fragrance: characteristic, delicate, fruited
    Taste: dry, slightly tannic, pleasing, bitterish

Dolcetto

The first mention, in the Piedmont area, of growing this very typical grapevine goes back to 1593; since then, it thrives on a large part of the Alessandria district territory, giving the best results in the Acqui and Ovada areas. In the wine obtained with this species, nothing recalls the pleasingly and intensely sweet taste of the grapes from which it is produced except for its name: Dolcetto (sweet). In fact, of ruby red colour with sometimes very deep violaceous reflexes and a fragrant and fruited scent, the Dolcetto is a dry wine "par excellence": it is precisely on account of its almond-like taste and pleasing bitterish aftertaste that it is appropriate for any type of meal, though a perfect oenogastronomical association is realized with white meat and tasty first courses such as "risotto" with mushrooms or truffles.

Four wines, produced in the Alessandria district, are originating from Dolcetto grapes.

  • Dolcetto d'Acqui (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Dolcetto
    Colour: deep ruby red with a tendency to brick red when maturing
    Fragrance: winy, light, fruited
    Taste: dry, soft, pleasingly almond-like or bitterish
  • Dolcetto d'Ovada (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Dolcetto
    Colour: deep ruby red tending to dark red when maturing
    Fragrance: winy, fruited
    Taste: dry, soft, harmonious, pleasingly almond-like
  • Monferrato Dolcetto (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Dolcetto for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other red acini, non aromatic grapes may contribute, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: ruby red
    Fragrance: winy, characteristic, pleasing
    Taste: dry, pleasingly bitterish, fairly full-bodied, harmonious
  • Colli Tortonesi Dolcetto (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Dolcetto for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other red acini, non aromatic grapes may contribute, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: ruby red tending to violaceous
    Fragrance: winy, characteristic, pleasing
    Taste: dry, pleasingly bitterish, fairly full-bodied, harmonious

Moscato Bianco (white muscat)

The Moscato is one of the most ancient and grown grapevine species: originating from Asia Minor; it has been spread in the whole Mediterranean basin by Greek and Phoenician sailors. Moscato grapes, called Apiciae by Caton, Apianae by Columella e Plinius as they were favourites for the bees on account of their sweet aroma, are producing a wine unique all over the world, which has found, in Piedmont, its area of adoption in the Monferrato area, in particular in the Acqui and Asti lands.

Cheerful, sweet in the right way, with an alcoholicity tolerated by everyone, a musky taste and aroma, it is a wine for parties and dessert: if the association with the classical desserts of Piedmont tradition ("panna cotta" - cooked cream, fruit tarts, cheese cakes) and the sausages is perfect, its association with oysters, recommended by some head cooks, is provocative but fascinating.

Four wines, produced in the Alessandria district, are originating from the Moscato Bianco grapes:

  • Piemonte Moscato Passito (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Moscato Bianco
    Colour: golden yellow, tending to more or less deep amber
    Fragrance: strong, complex musky smell characteristic of muscat grapes
    Taste: sweet, harmonious, velvety, aromatic
  • Piemonte Moscato (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Moscato Bianco
    Colour: straw-coloured or more or less deep golden yellow
    Fragrance: characteristic of muscat grapes
    Taste: characteristic aroma, sometimes fizzy
  • Asti or Asti Spumante (D.O.C.G.)
    Grapevine: Moscato Bianco Bubbles: thin, persistent Transparency: sparkling
    Colour: from, straw-coloured to very light golden
    Fragrance: characteristic, marked, delicate
    Taste: aromatic, characteristic, slightly sweet, balanced
  • Moscato d'Asti (D.O.C.G.)
    Grapevine: Moscato Bianco Transparency: sparkling
    Colour: more or less deep straw-coloured
    Fragrance: characteristic
    Taste: sweet, aromatic, characteristic.
    Sometimes lively or sparkling

Brachetto

This is a black acini grapevine; it started to be heard about during the first half of the 20th century even if it has been certainly introduced much earlier in the Asti and Alessandria areas. In fact, the Brachetto belongs to those grapevine species with an aromatic taste which spread in Piedmont from the 15th century to produce sweet wines required by elegant tables, particularly towards the end of the last century.

Sweet, soft, the Brachetto wine has a light ruby red colour, sometimes rosy, and a musky fragrance in which, among the smells of ripe fruit, persistent and strong touches of Bulgarian rose and of violet are felt, which captivate those who like wines with a delicate aroma.

On account of its characteristics, this is a wine to be tasted young, when it discloses the whole fragrance of grapes; each variant of Brachetto matches perfectly dried or hardly acid fruit, particularly peaches and strawberries, as well as salt meat and Piedmont dry pastry. In the sparkling variant, sometimes it is served as aperitive.

Two wines, produced in the Alessandria district, are originating from Brachetto grapes:

  • Brachetto d'Acqui or Acqui (D.O.C.G.)
    Grapevine: Brachetto
    Colour: ruby red of average intensity tending to slightly dark red or rosy
    Fragrance: musky aroma, very delicate, characteristic
    Taste: sweet, soft, delicate Sparkling type Bubbles: thin, persistent
    Transparency: sparkling Colour:
  • Piemonte Brachetto (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Brachetto for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other grapes with acini of similar colour, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: more or less deep ruby red, sometimes tending to rosy
    Fragrance: characteristic, with delicate musky aroma
    Taste: delicate, more or less sweet, sometimes sparkling

Barbera

According to tradition, the Barbera originated as a "spontaneous fruit" from the seeds of more ancient grapevine species of the Monferrato vine areas: there is no historical reference about this grapevine except for a mention in a document of the Nizza Monferrato archives, going back to the 17th century. In spite of this and without any doubt, the wine produced with these grapes is what best represents the land and people of Monferrato: rough, close, silent, strong.

Rich in body, acidity and tannin, pleasingly pungent when young, this wine matures well: as years go on, its colour shifts from deep ruby red to dark red, just as its taste and fragrance, particularly intense, winy and fruited, are pleasingly diminishing and harmonizing. Moreover, the Barbera is a vigorous wine, for a cooking worth of this characteristic: it goes perfectly with red meat, "tajarin" (noodles), stewed meat, barbecues and other typical Monferrato dishes.

Six wines, produced in the Alessandria district, are originating from Barbera grapes:

  • Barbera del Monferrato (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera from 85% to 100%; Freisa, Grignolino and Dolcetto, separately or jointly, up to a maximum of 15%
    Colour: more or less deep ruby red
    Fragrance: winy
    Taste: dry or slightly semisweet, full-bodied on average, sometimes lively or sparkling
  • Colli Tortonesi Barbera (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other grapes with acini of similar colour, non aromatic, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: rather deep ruby red diminishing when maturing and assuming dark red reflexes
    Fragrance: pleasingly winy with a persistent characteristic smell
    Taste: dry, fresh, lively, savoury, vigorous; becomes refined with time, assuming a full, round, harmonious taste
  • Barbera d'Asti (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera from 85% to 100%; Freisa, Grignolino and Dolcetto, separately or jointly, up to a maximum of 15%
    Colour: ruby red tending to dark red with maturing
    Fragrance: winy, with a characteristic smell, tending to ethereal with maturing
    Taste: dry, quiet, full-bodied; with appropriate maturing, more harmonious, pleasing and full-tasty
  • Piemonte Barbera (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera for at least 85%; for the remaining part, other grapes with acini of similar colour, "recommended" or "authorized" in the Alessandria district
    Colour: more or less deep red
    Fragrance: winy, characteristic
    Taste: dry, full-bodied, sometimes lively
  • Gabiano (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera 90-95%; Freisa and/or Grignolino 5-10%
    Colour: from ruby red to dark red with maturing
    Fragrance: winy and characteristic with maturing
    Taste: dry, harmonious and with average body
  • Rubino di Cantavenna (D.O.C.)
    Grapevine: Barbera from 75 to 90%; Freisa and Grignolino, separately or jointly, up to a maximum of 25%
    Colour: light ruby red with dark red reflexes
    Fragrance: winy with a slight pleasing, characteristic scent
    Taste: dry, harmonious and ful